I’m not so much an OFF-ROAD guy, but assuming that.. their world is just like ours. This is probably a bitch move 😀 if anyone does buy it. Or is it practical?
X132 56° Fuel Injected V-Twin V-Twin •
132 Cubic Inches (2,163 cc) •
4.4” Bore x 4.4” Stroke •
One-Piece Forged Crank •
Journal Bearing Design •
Single Side-Draft Intake with 58mm Throttle Bodies •
Performance Calibrated Engine Control Unit •
Horsepower: 121 BHP •
Torque: 140 Foot Pounds •
Proprietary X-Vault Unitized Design •
CNC Machined 6061 Aircraft-Grade Billet Aluminum •
3” 120 Wall Hard Steel Backbone •
3” 120 Wall Hard Steel Down Tube •
Hand Tig Welded Fabrication •
5-Speed Drag Racing Transmission •
Custom WP 48mm Fork •
Adjustable Rebound and Compression •
Custom Center-mounted Race Tech Coil-Over-Shock •
Adjustable Rebound and Compression •
Dual Beringer 4-Piston Machined Monobloc AEROTEC Radial Calipers •
Dual Beringer AERONAL Floating Ductile Iron Rotors •
Single Beringer 4-Piston Machined Monobloc AEROTEC Radial Caliper •
Cross-Drilled Brembo Stainless Steel Rotor •
BlackStone Tek Carbon Fiber with Proprietary Hubs •
Front: 3.5” x 18” •
Rear: 8” x 18” •
• Front: Metzeler ME 880 Marathon 120/70 ZR18
• Rear: Metzeler ME 880 Marathon 240/40 VR18
• 7” Round LED Headlamp
• Integrated High Beam, Low Beam, Running Lights
• LED Tail Lamp
• Rizoma Graffio LED Front & Rear Turn Signals
• Proprietary Design
• Carbon Fiber Construction
• Proprietary Confederate Design
• One-Piece Seamless Handmade Construction
• Heat, Chemical & Impact Resistant Aerospace Composite
• Matte Clear Coat Finish Over Carbon Fiber
• 3 Gallon Capacity
• Motogadget Precision Analogue Tachometer
• Digital Speed & Status
• Classic American Riding Position
• Premium Solo Tractor-Style Leather Saddle
• Forward Foot Controls
• Classic Swept Handlebar
• Seat Height: 28.5”
• Wheelbase: 63.5”
• Rake: 29°
• Trail: 4.185”
• Weight: 500 lbs
• Handmade in the USA
• Limited to 65 Units
• $69,500 USD
• $10,000.00 USD Pre-Payment Required
An exhaust system that is actuated by RPM. The Climax exhaust system makes no sound until you have reached the designated RPM, creating an amazing crossover in both performance and sound.
By remaining closed at low-RPM the vehicle is able to utilize the factory components which provide back-pressure. The exhaust is vacuum based and does not rely on electric motor to function providing reliability and lightning fast actuation.
We all love the Grand Theft Auto series. At first they were actually always focusing on cars but with time they saw that the free-roam really is the reason people were playing the game. But hey.. the name is still Grand Theft Auto.
For those who haven’t played the latest GTA V, you’ll be glad to know they ‘ve actually kept their concept of not using real-makes on their cars, they modify the car visually and verbally but maintain it’s original concept. Here’s the infographic that’ll show you what car is which car in the real-world.
Interactive paint? Is it finally here..! ?
LumiLor has engineered … in simple words “Light Up Paint”. Anyone ever watch that kid’s movie “Cars”, taken a look at those “street racing tuners” and wondered why.. “light-up paint would be cool”. This is your answer! Paint on and apply current! It seems like they’re lil’ picky with who they sell to, it’s not an over-the-counter transaction obviously..
The science behind the idea tells us that the initial paint’s light doesn’t burn out but it does actually fade-away in time. Which could be a big issue for people who don’t like to regularly paint their cars. Of course as the technology is so new.. we can’t possibly know the lifespan of the paint itself. Like an LED the lifespan is only effected by the hours it remains lit. Like an LED it can be configured to strobe, stay lit and work like neons in many other ways.
The lit state is only visible in the dark, it is near invisible in the sun. The paint only comes in a few colours – White, Green, Blue, Blue-Green (Turqoise?), Orange and certain custom colours like LumiColors Radio Active Green. Of course colour subtraction is possible (mixing colours) to achieve the closest possible match to what you or the customer has asked for.
Here’s another video preview of LumiColor applied to an actual vehicle:
For more information be sure to visit their site:
Crowned the “External Combustion Rocket Zero-lag Teaser” also known as the ZLS (Zero Lag System). This anti-lag setup is one of the world’s most creative ideas. Now the traditional Anti-lag system just spools the turbo and only cuts ignition, in reality you still have to wait for that spool. This system, eliminates all the wait!
Now let’s meet Ben, one of the best engine calibration engineers from the United Kingdom. Ben has designed this fantastic system, where pulse-jets are mounted before the turbo (pre-turbo), these pulse-jets supply the air/gas to pre-spin (or keep spinning) the turbo which of course eliminates all the lag. Now .. where is this pulse-jet pulling the air/gas from? in theory (according to HMS Motosport) it’s possible that the pulse-jet (black box in picture) is pulling air from the hot side of the intercooler, and pulsating it back into the turbo, which of course keeps that turbo spinning. There’s also a charge-tank which of course stores and does all the pulsating – now before anyone shoots a million emails or facebook IMs asking where to get one, this charge/rocket cannister is a prodrive from a WRC.
Below here, is a short description quoted by LukeD, an email explanation from Rodney @SubaruWRCSpares.
This device is fitted to the header just in front of the turbo and works as a sophisticated anti-lag system.
Air and fuel are fed into a combustion chamber and ignited by a spark on over-run, it can be used in three stages (depending on how long you want the engine to last) and is the cause of the load banging noise that can be heard as these cars pass by and the flames coming out of the tail pipe. This system is used in conjunction with the boost pack which stores excess pressure in it’s own reservoir to be fed back into the engine inlet side of the inter cooler when the throttle is depressed after shut off.
All this is coupled to the “flat change” gear shift and launch control system which is of course controlled the the ECU.
This system, although dated-back to 2008, with China’s low prices is estimated to cost over $20,000 USD (using aftermarket parts). In reality this system is amazing, but way too costly to actual implement. If car manufacturers retailed the system as an option I guess it would be possible but again it would cost an arm, leg and an eyeball! Looks like this is another track-only mod (or if you live in the UAE). – Besides the fact, anti-lag means a system to stop it, zero-lag means a system to eliminate it entirely – you don’t even need to think twice about which one’s better. But what’s better for your pocket .. well with $100 antilag systems, it’s no question!
This is something every car needs! Only couldn’t this be improved??
Nice one Chevy, but needs a lot of improvement, It’s just a dash cam that locks the comparments at the moment.
Also, wouldn’t hurt to make this a standard feature, I mean it’s just a dash cam and software – I’m quite curious as to how much this add-on costs from a dealership.
The all famous VAREX exhaust system, known by so many.. back when i was a child reading magazines with the advert, I used to think.. wow that’s a good idea. For the few who don’t know about the VAREX, it’s basically a muffler that can control the sound level of your exhaust, it has settings and a remote control and can be controlled by a wireless remote. Having three modes (as listed below) – it is (or more-so was) convenient for street use.. Made by XForce Australia – This is indeed ONE of the best exhaust systems on the market.
Not long after it started to become illegal in every country. In Australia – the ability to alter the sound of your vehicle from within the cabin is illegal, technically if a policeman wants to get you in Australia, he’ll get you. I myself have seen defects for stickers (yes, those stickers that add 10hp) and in Australia cops are quite.. “cracked down” on automotive enthusiasts, Muscle cars and Hot Rods seem to be okay though.
If you do use it wisely.. you honestly shouldn’t have any problems – only when your on the track would be exaggerating but perhaps on the highway, when you’re having bit of a joust with somebody at night, when there are of course no cops around you can always set it to “RACE Mode”. But as SOON as you spot trouble ahead keep it quiet. Or else you end up with a cop in your mirror, and having one of these labels slapped onto your windshield, and for more than just the exhaust. The exhaust is just what “asks for it”.
These Varex muffler/exhaust systems seem to work best on V8 (muscle-car) applications, and not so well with the small-block Honda VTEC engines. but with a hefty price of around $600 – 1,000 AUD. It is quite expensive. It is quite easy to say though.. you get what you pay for because the quality is indeed excellent – and they have made a name for themselves, starting out small and getting so far.
Variants of the Varex Muffler have been made, I cannot verify whether or not the VAREX was made before or after these variants, but still great alternatives. This variant seems to be a better solution, however it does not provide a tone, nor does it make any noise. When this device is installed as long as it’s closed there is no change in the initial vehicles sound – which is kind of a bummer, after spending a good $200 – 300 you want to hear bit of a sound even when it isn’t activated, at least a change in tone or even just a small hole to add some extra sound.
It is quite hard to install, and does not seem to be very practical, it is also quite big – it would probably be smarter to install this on a pipe mounted parallel to your current exhaust system. However as this device is controlled by the throttle, in many emissions tests performed by Road Authority Officers (EPA Officers, Highway Patrol, Traffic Enforcers, Patrol Rangers) are done by accelerating the vehicle to atleast 3,000 rpm. This will unfortunately still fail the dB test, and definitely fail the emissions test.
We’ve seen many helmets, from the infamous Harlem Shake Helmet (Horse helmet), to that helmet with an ass on the back of it any many more.. Well here’s the new thing, seems to be popular in Russia and only sold and made by Russians (strangely) – Introducing the Predator helmet.
Now there are several videos on the internet of how you can make your own helmet, but in all honesty it just doesn’t look right. Haven’t seen a decent one (yet). But painting these helmets in different colors still does give it a great look!
This Helmet, is nice, given the price it’s great, it is actually safe and does it’s job. You can see just fine out of it – If you’ve got the cash personally I would recommend putting some high tech gadgets (night vision would be SICK!) You could go splinter cell and add infrared goggles in it, as there is a lot of room to play with, but again realistically speaking unless you’re “loaded” it just isn’t worth it . It is a generic helmet with a custom-looking exterior, get one before they become very popular. Although I would still stick with my Horse Helmet, that does trip people out (especially the kids riding in the backseat).
Check it out!
And these are just some places that retail them (all online stores). Please keep in mind, there are several variants of the initial helmet, depending on where you buy it from.
http://nitrinos.ru/ – is retailing it for $550 USD
http://www.nlo-moto.ru/ – and this at $700 – 800 – However NLO Moto has a wide-range of different helmets.
Nitrous oxide, a tool famous in the drags for it’s extra boost, used on the streets thanks to Fast & the Furious and affordable thanks to the USA. Now Nitrous oxide, if Google’d will show up with all kinds of “sciency-stuff”. Well guess what fellas? It is! Most of the technology we use in cars are created & engineered by those geeks we bully in high school, who never get the girl (there are exceptions of course). It was first used for Air Crafts back in WWII.
Now, what is NOS? Most non-American people might never even see it (other than in the movies), NOS is basically a way to force the engine to allow a better air/fuel mixture into each cylinder, there are many kinds of Nitrous Oxide (n2o) systems but we’ll get into that later. If you would like to get scientific even Wikipedia is enough to help you out.
Here’s what a 3200 shot of nitrous oxide (from NX – Nitrous Express) looks like!
Now let’s clear up some myths.
Before buying Nitrous Oxide you really need to consider many things, is your car stock? Do you need a wet or dry shot? Do you want to go fast or do you want to fly? Here are basics simplified and summed up for everyone to understand.
Here’s a good video, quickly explaining (with animation) how direct port injection works.
Overall Nitrous Oxide is great! It’s cheap and gives you quite a bang for your buck! – It’s not too hard to install and certainly not a “bitch” to remove. It’s fun and is quite universal (so quite good if you switch rides quite often). If you live in a European country, in all honesty it isn’t really worth it (on a count of it’s price), It is the same in Australia & NZ, unless you have some kind of connection for a refill it’s better to just save for something else. They seem to have a much better effect on motors with a lot of displacement (3.0L V6 and above are much more suitable), hence why most V8 muscle cars use them. Before getting this you must keep in mind, this doesn’t really help your launch, it is injected as you go, and bouncing off a 2-step can cause several issues, so if you have 2-step be sure to tell your installer to set it up right (this will require a WOT switch).
VTEC works fine with Nitrous, but aim low as they have high compression and are temperamental from stock. I wouldn’t exceed a 70 shot to be honest, depending on the state of the engine, however we did test a 100 shot with a B16A2 and it was running fine, but of course it is somewhat a matter of luck.
Here’s a B16 going crazy with (apparently) a few bolt-ons and a 75 shot of nitrous.
If you have a carburetor (carby) motor, I don’t recommend it as you can’t really tune much there and it’s very sluggish, you get a fair share of pops and shots, it’s also a pain to get working right. However (not speaking from experience) big block carby motors do seem to really show results, if you look on the forums many people are quite happy with the results but there are those few who have complained.