How to make VTEC louder?
by SCRM Garage
Some people just want it louder, some people actually want to make it faster. – Whichever you’re after.. it is possible (long as you got the dough). This article has been written to answer all those questions honda noobs tend to ask:
- How can i make my vtec louder?
- How do u make vtec scream?
- how do i make the vtec sound lounder?
- how do i make vtec changeover louder?
- how can i make vtec crossover louder?
- how to make vtec louder?
- how to make my honda scream?
- how do i make vtec faster?
Now there are several different kinds of VTEC engines you’ll come across. SOHC / DOHC – then you’ve gotta move into the B / K / F / H / D series – God.. so many forums browsed and so much read!
First let’s take a look at the SOHC engines.
With these motors there really isn’t much you can do about the crossover difference, as a single cam this engines crossover is sadly just not that violent “or differing”.
The best thing you could possibly do is to make it as loud and grouchy as possible, to do this we’ll have to start by hooking you up with a decent air intake system. You’re not looking for a Cold-Side Air Intake System, you’re looking for something metal, big and with a nice curvy and soft angle bend in it. Add on a decent open pod filter and your car will be screaming! Now of course depending on what country you’re from an air filter should honestly cost only about $50 from China. $100 for something not bad, and a good $300 for something amazing like a Simota.
After you’ve got the inlet all done, now you need to work on your outlet! So we’re talking about the H/E from I/H/E. Headers are crucial get yourself a pair of 4-1 headers, they all look pretty much the same so when you’re buying one don’t look at which one is more shiny or has that stupid purple paint on it. It only looks good on a really fast car not a crappy SOHC engine. We’re poor lol.
To sum things up – Don’t expect any decent power or gains from this SOHC VTEC engine, even with a turbo it’s quite lousy is gains bit of torque and even less horsepower – and vastly increases your chance of blowing something up. The gearbox / transmission is quite trash you have to rebuild it to turbo standards. This setup seems to only be common in the USA.
Where VTEC actually matters, both in performance and that beautiful sound. In reality if you are after any kind of decent sound you will need to start forking out just a little bit of cash. Intake / Headers / Exhaust – Actually matter now in everyway! Get yourself a decent muffler and it will be enough to put a smile on your face. Put an air filter on and enjoy some psychological performance gains along with a more deep tone of VTEC.
Now we’ve all come across those morons that think their VTEC crossover is crazy loud, ridicilous power difference. You need to remember the purpose of VTEC is actually to save fuel at low-end RPM and still maintain the power at high-end. i-VTEC is a little more conservative performance wise but works just as good (not sound wise).
The entire VTEC B series will not disapoint in terms sound and performance LS/VTEC (b16 head with a b18 block does wonders for sound! – Best I’ve heard personally was a B18CR with a B21 head – that’s displacement upgraded CR-V Bottom end).
The F series of the S2000 engines again is amazing and even better sounding, sadly the Accord’s VTEC kind of disapoints. The H series is not bad but requires UPGRADING – Do your internals/turbo it if you like, it makes POWERR but lacks the reliability but again doesn’t do too bad with sound.
Finally we come to the KING, the K series – K20 yes! The RAW sound of SCREECHING VTEC but the K24 with i-vtec economical tune doesn’t have a crossover but sounds okay at high-end. Now there’s the .. K20 head on a k24 block one of the best swaps out there – This thing will brake your CV joints, make your steering wheel jerk and make u jizzzzzzzzzz soon as u hear it crossover into VTEC.
In conclusion – throw out your stock inlets and outlets! – Mod it up with bolt-ons and you’ll be lovin’ life!
The VTEC Climax Kit
Our exhaust system – specifically designed just for those few who want to hear VTEC really engage. When you’ve got this on your car – you laugh at those morons on YouTube who talk about how loud their crossover is.. those people who hear the difference and think O.M.G.
Imagine having a completely quiet / silent sounding exhaust system, probably just louder than a smart car enough but quiet enough to sneak up on a person walking in the middle of the night. That’s QUIET! – Soon as you hit VTEC – ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE! It makes it sound like you’ve hit NOS/TURBO/BOOST/SUPERCHARGE/VTEC/VVTLi/VANOS/VCT all at that same bloody time! – The sound is so loud would you believe we have yet..to find a camera (or microphone) that’s able to capture it without scrambling or distorting? – From nothing to crazy loud is mind blowing.
The exhaust system is a vacuum powered valve – the reason for this is to prevent future issues – As some may know the VAREX variants have many issues – the electric motors die out eventually. SCRM Garage’s VTEC Climax Kit will die only when your cars vacuum stops working (and well.. considering that’s what powers your brakes – You’ll die before the exhaust system stops working).
This device is basically undetectable by the police. Only in a thorough under-carriage vehicle inspection (that of course has a hoist / lift) would be able to spot what it is. It is placed before CAT and can only be opened physically by hand or automatically when engaging VTEC (which only engages above 20 km/h) so it won’t be opening on a stand still. Because of the fact that it’s placed before that CATALYTIC Converter when the device is closed your device functions with all of the standard emissions / smog friendly components of your car. We recommend installing this to your STANDARD exhaust system – although it works fine with an aftermarket.
Get one here!
The holy grail – the reason anyone likes Honda is the mods and guess what. These mods help your VTEC sound!!
Let’s take a look at Individual Throttle Bodies (although some call it Individual Racing Throttle Bodies) Let’s just say ITB for now. ITB is basically a way to get a lot more air! – It requires a hefty tune and often a new ECU. It makes real power without a turbo (this is the route most big naturally aspirated builds take).
It’s safe, costly, makes power and a shit tonne of noise! Unfortunately, it is trash for street use. By installing ITBs you’re eliminate most of your car’s daily/practical features:
- IACV – Goodbye Cold Starts, you’ll be holding the accelerator until your car is warmed up (New model ECUs work around this)
- Driving around at low speed in traffic without people looking at you like “WTF”.
- IDLE Issues – They go away !!!
- Jerk Free – Deacceleration. The thing you’ll notice once you’ve got these installed is that when you let off the accelerator you get a lot of jerk (in gear of course
Air Intake Systems
There are two kinds of air intake systems. One designed to draw cold air – these are often referred to as Cold Side Air Intake Systems.
With Hondas we don’t really have a hot/cold air problem. Honda already places the air intake separate from any heat sources. One thing they do often bring in is the really long intakes that go down to the floor to soak up cold as possible air. In reality these “cold-side intakes” don’t make any difference (a little psychological HP/KW is added). Throttle response decreases because of the length of the air intake and it has a deeper sound tone.
There are two issues with this kind of air intake system – the first being that it makes the car seem a little slow when you hit the pedal but in reality the noise compensates for this. The second is because of the height/location if you ever come across a lightly flooded area there’s a HUGE chance your engine will be sucking up water and you’ll end up hydrolocked in the middle of the road.
Then we have the standardized CAI – Often referred to as the Short Ram Intake. That’s a small pipe (often metal based) with a nice little open air/pod filter on the end. This delivers optimal and perfect VTEC sound (also helps with throttle response).
Last of all we have the almighty Spiral intake. Designed by the Chinese but put out there by the Japanese/Americans – Also known as the “Whale Penis” “Whale Dick” “Whale Cock” “Big Tube” “Whaling Tube”.
Simota producing the only one with positive dyno results retails them for roughly $250 but you can pick them up second hand from someone who just wants a change in tone for about $50-80. This air intake provides the best & loudest VTEC tone there is. Combined with an exhaust it’s as loud as you can get… without losing power. (in fact.. gaining)
As you can see Individual Throttle Bodies also need air filters – putting custom K&N air filters on the throttle bodies really does help with the sound. It provides a rich less “screamy/screechy” sound, mono tones it down a little and makes it sound like an actual car that’s modified rather than one of those vans with a blown turbo and loose timing belt driving around loudly.