“The Purple Monster” as dubbed by the original owner
I hunted locally for a clean Mk1 shell,couldnt find any until someone from MX5 Nutz mentioned he had a mint shell possibly for sale. So with a few phone calls later we had agreed on a deal,and today I took delivery of it.
The car was purchased in Japan,over there it had thousands of pounds spent on it including a highly tuned engine on carbs,Garage Vary body kit,Garage Vary bonnet,centre shotgun exhaust,roll cage and much more! I’ve been told it was used as a Touge Car while over there.
While it was over there it had a respray (originally Red,arent they all!) in Honda Amethyst Purple. The inside has been stripped and the floor and behind the seats have been painted the same colour).
The car was imported to the UK in 2007,and has covered hardly any miles in that time. I believe the shell has only covered 40k and you can certainly see that! Theres not a single spot of rust on her!
The car got sold earlier this year and was stripped and put back to standard form. The car had a Veilside front bumper,which got removed and a stock bumper was refitted,hence why its a different colour,same goes with the bonnet. The engine was removed and a stock 1.6 long nose engine was put in its place.
What it looked like upon purchase:
September 2013 Updates:
Late September: Fitted the TR Lane Cage
Snetterton Car Enthusiast Day MX5 Slalom (7th October, 2013)
After some slight damage to the car, the vehicle was taken to the body shop.
NRG Luminor Glow Steering Wheel (November Install)
New wheels while waiting on the car to come back from the paint shop
Here are the photos from the early Christmas.
Gauges Fitted – Some nice photos taken.
New custom interior for everything but the dash. Done by ALL-TRIMS UK (website unavailable)
Some more mods and accessories.
June, 2014 Update:
New WHEELS TOO! Rota RKR Front 15x8j ET0 and Rear 15x9j ET0
October, 2014 – A new rear lip and stock headlights!
The car got dropped off at H&S Performance and the engine was pulled out. The car was then dropped off at AutoDoc Bodyshop for the main work to begin. While the car was in the bodyshop,the guys at H&S Performance did a full service of the engine while it was out.
- Spark Plugs
- Oil/Oil Filter/Sump Plug
- Cambelt & tensioners
- Thermostat & Coolant Sensor
- Painted Upper and Lower Thermostat Housings
- Painted Inlet Manifold with Throttle Body
- Painted Rocker Cover
- Painted Cambelt Cover
- Engine Block Painted
The car was finished and dropped back off at H&S where more parts were fitted along side the re-fitting of the engine.
- Clutch Slave Cylinder
- Alloy Radiator
- Eunos Racing Development Silicone Radiator Hoses
- New Expansion Bottle
- New Washer Bottle
- Polished Oil Cap
- Polished Plug Cover
- Stainless Fusebox Cover
- Painted Radiator Panel cover
- Painted Scuttle Panel Cover
- Countersunk Purple Washers and Bolts
Before & After
Some people just want it louder, some people actually want to make it faster. – Whichever you’re after.. it is possible (long as you got the dough).
This article has been written to answer all those questions honda noobs tend to ask:
- How can i make my vtec louder?
- How do u make vtec scream?
- how do i make the vtec sound lounder?
- how do i make vtec changeover louder?
- how can i make vtec crossover louder?
- how to make vtec louder?
- how to make my honda scream?
- how do i make vtec faster?
Now there are several different kinds of VTEC engines you’ll come across. SOHC / DOHC – then you’ve gotta move into the B / K / F / H / D series – God.. so many forums browsed and so much read!
First let’s take a look at the SOHC engines.
With these motors there really isn’t much you can do about the crossover difference, as a single cam this engines crossover is sadly just not that violent “or differing”.
The best thing you could possibly do is to make it as loud and grouchy as possible, to do this we’ll have to start by hooking you up with a decent air intake system. You’re not looking for a Cold-Side Air Intake System, you’re looking for something metal, big and with a nice curvy and soft angle bend in it. Add on a decent open pod filter and your car will be screaming! Now of course depending on what country you’re from an air filter should honestly cost only about $50 from China. $100 for something not bad, and a good $300 for something amazing like a Simota.
After you’ve got the inlet all done, now you need to work on your outlet! So we’re talking about the H/E from I/H/E. Headers are crucial get yourself a pair of 4-1 headers, they all look pretty much the same so when you’re buying one don’t look at which one is more shiny or has that stupid purple paint on it. It only looks good on a really fast car not a crappy SOHC engine. We’re poor lol.
To sum things up – Don’t expect any decent power or gains from this SOHC VTEC engine, even with a turbo it’s quite lousy is gains bit of torque and even less horsepower – and vastly increases your chance of blowing something up. The gearbox / transmission is quite trash you have to rebuild it to turbo standards. This setup seems to only be common in the USA.
Where VTEC actually matters, both in performance and that beautiful sound. In reality if you are after any kind of decent sound you will need to start forking out just a little bit of cash. Intake / Headers / Exhaust – Actually matter now in everyway! Get yourself a decent muffler and it will be enough to put a smile on your face. Put an air filter on and enjoy some psychological performance gains along with a more deep tone of VTEC.
Now we’ve all come across those morons that think their VTEC crossover is crazy loud, ridicilous power difference. You need to remember the purpose of VTEC is actually to save fuel at low-end RPM and still maintain the power at high-end. i-VTEC is a little more conservative performance wise but works just as good (not sound wise).
The entire VTEC B series will not disapoint in terms sound and performance LS/VTEC (b16 head with a b18 block does wonders for sound! – Best I’ve heard personally was a B18CR with a B21 head – that’s displacement upgraded CR-V Bottom end).
The F series of the S2000 engines again is amazing and even better sounding, sadly the Accord’s VTEC kind of disapoints. The H series is not bad but requires UPGRADING – Do your internals/turbo it if you like, it makes POWERR but lacks the reliability but again doesn’t do too bad with sound.
Finally we come to the KING, the K series – K20 yes! The RAW sound of SCREECHING VTEC but the K24 with i-vtec economical tune doesn’t have a crossover but sounds okay at high-end. Now there’s the .. K20 head on a k24 block one of the best swaps out there – This thing will brake your CV joints, make your steering wheel jerk and make u jizzzzzzzzzz soon as u hear it crossover into VTEC.
The holy grail – the reason anyone likes Honda is the mods and guess what. These mods help your VTEC sound!!
The VTEC Climax Kit
Our exhaust system – specifically designed just for those few who want to hear VTEC really engage. When you’ve got this on your car – you laugh at those morons on YouTube who talk about how loud their crossover is.. those people who hear the difference and think O.M.G.
Imagine having a completely quiet / silent sounding exhaust system, probably just louder than a smart car enough but quiet enough to sneak up on a person walking in the middle of the night. That’s QUIET! – Soon as you hit VTEC – ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE! It makes it sound like you’ve hit NOS/TURBO/BOOST/SUPERCHARGE/VTEC/VVTLi/VANOS/VCT all at that same bloody time! – The sound is so loud would you believe we have yet..to find a camera (or microphone) that’s able to capture it without scrambling or distorting? – From nothing to crazy loud is mind blowing.
The exhaust system is a vacuum powered valve – the reason for this is to prevent future issues – As some may know the VAREX variants have many issues – the electric motors die out eventually. SCRM Garage’s VTEC Climax Kit will die only when your cars vacuum stops working (and well.. considering that’s what powers your brakes – You’ll die before the exhaust system stops working).
This device is basically undetectable by the police. Only in a thorough under-carriage vehicle inspection (that of course has a hoist / lift) would be able to spot what it is. It is placed before CAT and can only be opened physically by hand or automatically when engaging VTEC (which only engages above 20 km/h) so it won’t be opening on a stand still. Because of the fact that it’s placed before that CATALYTIC Converter when the device is closed your device functions with all of the standard emissions / smog friendly components of your car. We recommend installing this to your STANDARD exhaust system – although it works fine with an aftermarket.
Where do i get one? http://scrmgarage.com/product/vtec-climax-exhaust/
Let’s take a look at Individual Throttle Bodies (although some call it Individual Racing Throttle Bodies) Let’s just say ITB for now. ITB is basically a way to get a lot more air! – It requires a hefty tune and often a new ECU. It makes real power without a turbo (this is the route most big naturally aspirated builds take).
It’s safe, costly, makes power and a shit tonne of noise! Unfortunately, it is trash for street use. By installing ITBs you’re eliminate most of your car’s daily/practical features:
- IACV – Goodbye Cold Starts, you’ll be holding the accelerator until your car is warmed up (New model ECUs work around this)
- Driving around at low speed in traffic without people looking at you like “WTF”.
- IDLE Issues – They go away !!!
- Jerk Free – Deacceleration. The thing you’ll notice once you’ve got these installed is that when you let off the accelerator you get a lot of jerk (in gear of course
Air Intake Systems
There are two kinds of air intake systems. One designed to draw cold air – these are often referred to as Cold Side Air Intake Systems.
With Hondas we don’t really have a hot/cold air problem. Honda already places the air intake separate from any heat sources. One thing they do often bring in is the really long intakes that go down to the floor to soak up cold as possible air. In reality these “cold-side intakes” don’t make any difference (a little psychological HP/KW is added). Throttle response decreases because of the length of the air intake and it has a deeper sound tone.
There are two issues with this kind of air intake system – the first being that it makes the car seem a little slow when you hit the pedal but in reality the noise compensates for this. The second is because of the height/location if you ever come across a lightly flooded area there’s a HUGE chance your engine will be sucking up water and you’ll end up hydrolocked in the middle of the road.
Then we have the standardized CAI – Often referred to as the Short Ram Intake. That’s a small pipe (often metal based) with a nice little open air/pod filter on the end. This delivers optimal and perfect VTEC sound (also helps with throttle response).
Last of all we have the almighty Spiral intake. Designed by the Chinese but put out there by the Japanese/Americans – Also known as the “Whale Penis” “Whale Dick” “Whale Cock” “Big Tube” “Whaling Tube”.
Simota producing the only one with positive dyno results retails them for roughly $250 but you can pick them up second hand from someone who just wants a change in tone for about $50-80. This air intake provides the best & loudest VTEC tone there is. Combined with an exhaust it’s as loud as you can get… without losing power. (in fact.. gaining)
As you can see Individual Throttle Bodies also need air filters – putting custom K&N air filters on the throttle bodies really does help with the sound. It provides a rich less “screamy/screechy” sound, mono tones it down a little and makes it sound like an actual car that’s modified rather than one of those vans with a blown turbo and loose timing belt driving around loudly.
In conclusion – throw out your stock inlets and outlets! – Mod it up with bolt-ons and you’ll be lovin’ life!
Crowned the “External Combustion Rocket Zero-lag Teaser” also known as the ZLS (Zero Lag System). This anti-lag setup is one of the world’s most creative ideas. Now the traditional Anti-lag system just spools the turbo and only cuts ignition, in reality you still have to wait for that spool. This system, eliminates all the wait!
Now let’s meet Ben, one of the best engine calibration engineers from the United Kingdom. Ben has designed this fantastic system, where pulse-jets are mounted before the turbo (pre-turbo), these pulse-jets supply the air/gas to pre-spin (or keep spinning) the turbo which of course eliminates all the lag. Now .. where is this pulse-jet pulling the air/gas from? in theory (according to HMS Motosport) it’s possible that the pulse-jet (black box in picture) is pulling air from the hot side of the intercooler, and pulsating it back into the turbo, which of course keeps that turbo spinning. There’s also a charge-tank which of course stores and does all the pulsating – now before anyone shoots a million emails or facebook IMs asking where to get one, this charge/rocket cannister is a prodrive from a WRC.
Below here, is a short description quoted by LukeD, an email explanation from Rodney @SubaruWRCSpares.
This device is fitted to the header just in front of the turbo and works as a sophisticated anti-lag system.
Air and fuel are fed into a combustion chamber and ignited by a spark on over-run, it can be used in three stages (depending on how long you want the engine to last) and is the cause of the load banging noise that can be heard as these cars pass by and the flames coming out of the tail pipe. This system is used in conjunction with the boost pack which stores excess pressure in it’s own reservoir to be fed back into the engine inlet side of the inter cooler when the throttle is depressed after shut off.
All this is coupled to the “flat change” gear shift and launch control system which is of course controlled the the ECU.
This system, although dated-back to 2008, with China’s low prices is estimated to cost over $20,000 USD (using aftermarket parts). In reality this system is amazing, but way too costly to actual implement. If car manufacturers retailed the system as an option I guess it would be possible but again it would cost an arm, leg and an eyeball! Looks like this is another track-only mod (or if you live in the UAE). – Besides the fact, anti-lag means a system to stop it, zero-lag means a system to eliminate it entirely – you don’t even need to think twice about which one’s better. But what’s better for your pocket .. well with $100 antilag systems, it’s no question!
As you can see we have updated our site, mainly just the theme and of course some content. Though it took quite a long time because of the WP version difference we have finally finished – We’ve also improved our online store. When improving we decided to no longer retail the TURBO version of our exhaust system as it seems to be just too variable. There are too many incompatible and too many compatible vehicles that are just basically untestable as a result we’ve decided that when our other products are ready we’ll begin retailing model specific TURBO versions (if you’re still interested in a Turbo Actuated Design please contact us and we can assist you. They are ready, they’re just very model specific and the price varies from vehicle to vehicle.